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Technical Info: 1st Generation Technical discussion of first generation (1989 - 1993) questions, solutions and upgrades. All 1st generation topics are suitable for this forum.
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Old 12-07-2015
JoeLuther JoeLuther is offline
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Default ignition lock cylinder replacement mystery

From the things that make you go hmmmm department. I had to replace the ignition lock cylinder on the son's 89 D250, there was a goofy setup in place to bypass the key when we got it. When I got it all apart, I discovered the real reason for the problem was the actuator rod out of the locking assembly was falling down and partially out of the electrical switch assembly on top of the steering column. This would cause the key and actuator assembly to bind when the key was turned forward to start the truck, anywhere past the home position where the key is inserted and removed. Turning backwards to accessory position was fine. I could get it to work occasionally when holding the rod in place but it would fall out and bind. Not terribly proud of the fact that I cut a length of vacuum hose and slid it around the rod to hold it up in place but it works.
The point of my ramble is what I ran into when putting the column back together in front of the ignition cylinder assembly. Going from inside out, there is a lock plate/actuator assembly, star wheel that engages the lock, a spring, a bearing retainer, the turn signal contact assembly, and the steering wheel. There is supposed to be a snap ring in front of the bearing retainer to hold all that in place, fits in a groove on the steering column shaft. I remember taking the snap ring out but since it was a month ago, I don't recall sequence. Every bit of documentation I can find tells me the snap ring does in fact go in front of the bearing retainer. Problem is that the snap ring groove is 1/4" behind the bearing retainer when I have it all back together. It fits in front of the star wheel, not the bearing retainer. This isn't rocket science, it's all error proofed and only fits one way, but I'll be danged if I can figure out why that snap ring isn't fitting where it's supposed to. the wheel splines align with the front of the column surrounds, everything in the assembly is snug and lines up, the bearing is set in the retainer groove, it's just that the snap ring is behind the bearing retainer. If I ever figure it out, I'll let you know. If you've had one apart and done the same thing, let me know how you fixed it, okay? Since my son will eventually be driving it, I don't want to put it on the road till I figure this out.
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Old 12-07-2015
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pullinforme pullinforme is offline
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if it is like my old ford I had to get vice grips and pull up on shaft and hold to put on snap ring
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Old 12-07-2015
JoeLuther JoeLuther is offline
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Originally Posted by pullinforme View Post
if it is like my old ford I had to get vice grips and pull up on shaft and hold to put on snap ring
Well, that's interesting. I actually thought about the shaft retreating towards the engine inside the column and moving the groove relative to the parts, tried to give it a pull, but didn't think that was possible. Wouldn't that make the ignition lock cylinder position on the shaft misalign with the opening on the column? Everything fits and aligns fine wherever the column outer housing aligns with the shaft.
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Old 12-07-2015
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All of the older ones I did (81-88) didn't have a snap ring. If the rod bound, it meant the switch was the problem.
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Old 12-07-2015
JoeLuther JoeLuther is offline
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All of the older ones I did (81-88) didn't have a snap ring. If the rod bound, it meant the switch was the problem.
This one definitely had a snap ring, I see it laying on the floor of the truck and the pliers are on the seat. Bonus points that I actually remember it since I took it apart a while ago. I just don't remember the disassembly sequence and what I see doesn't make anything published. I guess I'll see if the shaft will come closer to me somehow via some persuasion I haven't tried and go from there.

Unless there is a snap ring to keep the rod in a certain spot in the switch guts rather than having gravity take over and drop the rod down on top of the column, I'm not sure what could be wrong with the switch. It doesn't drop down far enough to fall out, just enough to change the actuation action of the rod and make it bind up. If the rod stays up inside the switch, it works okay. I wonder if there is a guide missing somewhere on the top of the column for the rod to keep it elevated. Hopefully, the vacuum line keeps it elevated, if not, it's easy to get a bit of access to the rod by dropping the column a bit.
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Old 12-08-2015
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the snap ring on the ford allowed the steering shaft to be the right height so the turn assy and steering wheel would fit with the tilt wheel as too a first gen dodge I did not move fast enough
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06 dodge 1/2 ton 2wd gasser 4.7 l auto [replacement for giving the son the ford] went to my mother 2016 1500 5.7hemi 10000 original miles

2014 Cadillac CTS 2.0 turbo
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Old 12-12-2015
JoeLuther JoeLuther is offline
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Originally Posted by pullinforme View Post
the snap ring on the ford allowed the steering shaft to be the right height so the turn assy and steering wheel would fit with the tilt wheel as too a first gen dodge I did not move fast enough
You guy were right. I had to wrap the threaded end of the steering column shaft in duct tape and use vice grips to pull like crazy on it to overcome spring pressure somewhere in the column assembly to get that snap ring on. Back together now, discovered the steering wheel I got from the yard doesn't fit this truck. The splines are the same but it is different on the back side of the wheel. Thanks for the help.
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