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Technical Info: 3rd Generation: DRIVETRAIN Technical discussion of third generation (2003 - 2007) engine and drivetrain questions, solutions and upgrades.
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Old 1 Week Ago
Jim Hodge Jim Hodge is offline
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Default About the 2005 Dodge diesel

Been looking for a Stickey that tells the improvements or changes with the different generations of the Dodge Ram diesel. One of the reasons that I stepped up to the 05 is because of its ride. What changes went into making it better? Is the 05 the beginning of the use of the 48re auto trans? I have heard that the electronic injectors are a big part of making the engine less noisy, via the multiple injection of fuel during compression. Am assuming that the KDP is no longer an issue with the 05. Is there any problem with adding used oil to the fuel, I can clean it up to the 1 micron range via multiple filters. I have heard that some of the models are very sensitive to fuel color and quality (contaminants). Also heard that the 48re has different programs during the 05 to 07.5 production years, something to do with the tow/haul selection. Did some research on the problems that seem to appear and read that at around 100k expect injectors to be needing to be replaced, front end linkage getting loose (with the 08 having beefier components that work in the 05 - 07.5 models), and the #4 and maybe #5 fuel lines cracking and leaking fuel. Can anyone comment on any of these areas or add to the list of heads up information? Thanks JH
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I doctor my fuel with 4 oz per tank of ashless 2 cycle oil and add fuel injector cleaner in the same ratio,,,,173k and no injector issues, knock on wood.....also add biocide from time to time. Rebushed the track bar and added a steering box stabilizer. Be religious with fuel filters, buy good ones....difference between filters and good filters is only a couple of bucks.
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I carry a spare #4 line in my truck as it has been a known failure issue, so far i'm on the original. The thing to look for is if the little blue clamps on the lines wear and allow the line to pulse and rattle, there should be a bit of a gap on the ends of the blue isolaters.
The old school thinking of adding any sort of oil to the fuel is a bad idea with the new injectors, they are very sensitive to dirt and foreign things, it is recommended to add a good fuel additive once in awhile depending on how it is driven. Filter changes with good filters are your friend, instead of $600 for a set of 6 injectors they are $600 each now.
The KDP is no longer an issue.
Oil changes are longer with a good synthetic oil, i run amsoil and change it once a year with a filter change at 6months. I also run amsoil filters and oil through out my truck. I did over a years worth of sampling to come to my decision to run this long on my oil. I went over 100,000 km's (62,000 mi) without an oil change, just filters , until my sample came back with a recommendation for a change.
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'96 2500SLT CC LB 2WD, KDP tabbed,100Hp Maxsticks,16* ,3k gsk,afc modded,#8 tst plate,62/70/13 turbo,4" MBRP exhaust,AFE stage III dry filter intake,autometer boost pyro, oil, tran temp,DSS,rebuilt diff & tranny w/billet triple lock TC w/lockup switch,1tn rear cylinders,ride rites on all 4 corners w/on board air,465k km. 330 hp 766 ft/lbs
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Jim Hodge Jim Hodge is offline
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Good information to know. Going back to the use of used engine oil in the fuel, seems like I read that oil filters clean the oil down to 25 or maybe it was 15 microns. I can use a fuel filter from Baldwin that will clean it down to 2 microns. Is 2 microns too much for our injectors? If its good enough for cleaning the fuel why not oil that is in the fuel? I used to burn the stuff in the second gen trucks that I had, right out of the crankcase. Yes, it filled up the fuel filter and cause loss of power, but it wasn't a problem for the injectors. Added a bit of power, made the engine run quieter and smoother, until the fuel filter would plug up.. I know, I know, the 05 is a different beast than the 2nds Gens, but just how different. All this electronic control stuff is like voodoo science to me. It makes things sensitive to changes, in fuel, air flow etc. I'm not talking about putting the whole 12 quarts in at once, maybe half a gallon at a fill up. It does not get cold enough around here to worry about gelling. Worst I could do is destroy a $5000 engine. Big Dummy. I get my fuel filters from diesel truck supply house. Been using Baldwin oil filters and the the fuel cartridge is Baldwin also. My 99 had a fuel pressure gauge mounted on the column and read about 15# when new, but when the pressure readings started to drop, it was new filter time. Could that be done on the 05? Seemed like a good way to determine when the fuel filter was toast. Is the 05 adaptable to the BHAF? Doesn't look like there is as much room as the 2 gen trucks had. Apologize for being long winded, but searching for opinions before I do something real stupid. I will be using this 05 mainly for pulling a 6000# travel trailer and occasionally a dump trailer with sand or rock of 7500#. My main goal is to get the mileage up from the 14 to 17 mpg that it now gets. Got used to the 20+ mpg of the earlier gen trucks.
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Recycle the used oil at a place that collects it, I treat my fuel with new 2 cycle ashless, injector cleaner and religious about filters. Your truck, your money. Mileage should be hand calculated at the pump.....the Lie-o-Meter in the cab roof says I'm getting 28 MPG, I get 21 or so. Do all mileage calculations from full, check air in the tires, alignment and go from there. First thing I would check is boost at the engine....ie turbo efficiency.
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'06 2500 Metallic Black Thunder Road, QC, 4X4, G56 w/ SBDD, Home Brew in the gearboxes Volant CAI, ATS Arc Flow , Airdog 100, AFE 4" cat back, Smarty JR, Warn lock-outs, drilled and slotted rotors, HBS steering stabilizer, Pacbrake airbags, Bilstiens, RP 15W40 , 2 BIG BALLS (shift knobs) from Geno's, 5th wheel slider, step bars. The next mod is........

'74 Trans Am, someday car.......
'10 Wildwood 356 SRV
'15 Mid-life crisis
'98 Oytota Navalon
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I have a fuel pressure gauge at pump on engine running a FASS and 3 filters 13-15 psi running, if you can get more than 14-17mpg you would be doing great mine is 17.5 or less I do drive 7-8 over everywhere 80-82 on big road used oil? I would not do used oil but as said your truck and your money
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The old mechanical injectors in the 2nd gens could handle the oil in the fuel because they were mechanically activated and little more generous on tolerances. The new injectors use a piezoelectric crystal to be fired electrically and not mechanically, with a more precise spry pattern and control of spray time and are very sensitive to foreign things in the fuel. Like i said before you could buy a set for the old girls for $600 and the new ones $600 a piece. I had a fuel pressure guage on mine until the sending unit died , can't be bothered to spend another $250 for a new gauge so i just took the gauge and pod out. You will need to use a pressure damper on the gauge if you do get one, the pulses from the lift pump will beat it to death. Bladwin, Fleetguard and amsoil are all good filters to use. I use a 4" pleated filter from amsoil in my intake not sure you find any difference with the BHAF on our trucks. I get 18-20 mpg with my truck using a tuner box from TST which drops to 15 or so towing about the same weight as you. The box helps by changing the timing which really sucks from the factory i also have 3:73 gears which keeps my rpms up at 2k for 70 mph, 3:54 will drop you to 1800 ish. Maxtorq is the site guru on all thing diesel, he must be busy with his government job or els he would likely chime in on the does and don'ts.
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sold
'96 2500SLT CC LB 2WD, KDP tabbed,100Hp Maxsticks,16* ,3k gsk,afc modded,#8 tst plate,62/70/13 turbo,4" MBRP exhaust,AFE stage III dry filter intake,autometer boost pyro, oil, tran temp,DSS,rebuilt diff & tranny w/billet triple lock TC w/lockup switch,1tn rear cylinders,ride rites on all 4 corners w/on board air,465k km. 330 hp 766 ft/lbs
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Yes the 05 is different beast than 2nd Gen. I personally would not use used motor oil in the fuel in a 3rd gen but that's me. Ever think to make the switch to AMSOIL Diesel Oil and a AMSOIL High efficiency oil filter and your good to go. One oil change per year including oil filter or longer with oil analysis. AMSOIL EaO-80 oil filter has the best absolute filtration out of the rest of the oil filters.

For additives I have ran AMSOIL Injector clean mixed with AMSOIL Cetane Boost every tank.

AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters (EaO) have the best efficiency rating in the industry. EaO Filters provide a filtering efficiency in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 98.7 percent at 20 microns, while competitive filters containing conventional cellulose medias range from 40 to 80 percent efficiency.
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Last edited by Herb; 1 Week Ago at 05:34 PM..
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As I work in a fuel injection/turbo shop, one thing I have learned is ...Why take a chance of screwing up an engine, especially the newer engines by pouring either dirty contaminated oil, 2 cycle oil, or Mystery Marvel oil thru your fuel system...there are only two products that we approve and that is Stanadyne and Amsoil. We see it all in our shop. Just like those that use biodiesel, you would not believe how that crap turns to a tar like substance and plugs the oil journals, turbo internal parts etc, and why?...to save a few bucks...these are expensive $10,000 + engines that deserve the best in fuel, additives and oils.
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I believe using 20% used engine oil ate my original injector pump, I can imagine what it'll do to CR injectors.
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