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Technical Info: 2nd Gen NON-DRIVETRAIN Technical discussion of second generation (1994 - 2002) questions, solutions and upgrades. Please -- DO NOT post drivetrain discussions in this forum.
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  #1  
Old 06-02-2017
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smokediver smokediver is offline
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Default Battery Drain

Any common causes of battery drain on a 96?
Mine was fine, driving every day, parked for a month and dead!
Both batteries and alternator less than a year old.

Don't know how it could be related, but the fuel shutoff actuator took a dive too...Will hold, won't pull in.

Not a bad battery...if I disconnect both when I park it they're fine.

Suggestions where to start...??
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#10 fuel plate, AFC mods, straight exhaust, silencer ring...??
99 2500 2wd, quad cab, auto, raptor on frame rail, big line kit, k&n filter right on the turbo.
'07, megacab, 2wd, dually, 6.7, 6 spd auto,
DPF gutted, h&s programmer, jasper turbo.

My Other Truck is a Fire Engine!!
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Old 06-03-2017
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Start by disconnecting the battery (negative terminals first) , both if you have two, charge and test them. Reconnect the positive lead(s) and next you install a 12v test light in series with the ground lead to the batteries, if two batteries use two lights. If the light(s) are on you have a power drain....the lights illuminate only if a complete circuit exists. Pull fuses one at a time until the test light(s) extinguish. Also a diode in the alternator could have failed and will show up as a warm alternator on a cool engine. Always disconnect the negative terminals first and connect the negative terminal last when servicing the battery
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Old 06-03-2017
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Most DVMs (digital volt meters) will handle 10 amps DC. A wiring diagram is a must. Disconnect the right battery completely, it make troubleshooting easier. Connect the DVM between the battery and battery cable (DVM in series). Keep the key off and start pulling fuses one at a time until the load on the meter drops. Examine the diagram for that fuse and check components before and after the fuse (contacts in the ignition switch could be stuck on even though the switch is in the off position). If a fuse doesn't drop the load, then start disconnecting components.
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92 W250 Xcab 4X4, HD 47RH with Compushift, GDS moded H1C/w 16cm, custom ground fuel pin, 7X010 DAP injectors, gauges and some mild tuning. Hits 35psi now.
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Old 06-05-2017
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10-4.
I knew I'd Heard of something like that, but tried putting my dvm in the ground circuit friday & got like .135 amps or something.
Gonna show my ignorance...does it matter if it's AC or DC amps? I only see one amp setting. Meter has the clamp that will read A.C. amps...I've used that before... it showed "0" on the battery cable.

Did feel the alternator & it was warm but I had started the truck long enough to pull it in the shade so wasn't sure if that was valid.

The fuel shutoff solenoid is working again. Must've just been due to the fully drained batteries.

Now where is that test light thingy...

Thanks guys!
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'96 3500 2WD, club cab, Auto, 4.10's, Regency Edition
#10 fuel plate, AFC mods, straight exhaust, silencer ring...??
99 2500 2wd, quad cab, auto, raptor on frame rail, big line kit, k&n filter right on the turbo.
'07, megacab, 2wd, dually, 6.7, 6 spd auto,
DPF gutted, h&s programmer, jasper turbo.

My Other Truck is a Fire Engine!!

Last edited by smokediver; 06-05-2017 at 08:40 AM..
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  #5  
Old 06-07-2017
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I would suspect your fuel solenoid was the issue, it takes power to hold it open and lock it open they can do funny things. The clamp only works on AC current FYI.

May want to check the starter contact as well, it affects the fuel solenoid.
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Old 06-08-2017
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Sure thing.
Thanks McKee.
Now if I just had some time to tinker with it....
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'96 3500 2WD, club cab, Auto, 4.10's, Regency Edition
#10 fuel plate, AFC mods, straight exhaust, silencer ring...??
99 2500 2wd, quad cab, auto, raptor on frame rail, big line kit, k&n filter right on the turbo.
'07, megacab, 2wd, dually, 6.7, 6 spd auto,
DPF gutted, h&s programmer, jasper turbo.

My Other Truck is a Fire Engine!!
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