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Technical Info: 2nd Gen 12 VALVE DRIVETRAIN Technical discussion of second generation (1994 - 1998) 12-valve engine and drivetrain questions, solutions and upgrades.
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  #1  
Old 11-26-2012
dieselfarmboy dieselfarmboy is offline
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Default Front crank seal

How hard is it to replace the front crank seal? Are any special tools needed? Thanks.
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Old 11-26-2012
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It's easier to use the tool designed to take off the Fan Clutch. 10mm bolts on the front cover and the water pump, then 16mm? on the vibration dampener. I found it easiest to remove the radiator and intercooler also as I kept getting a leaking front cover trying to work behind them.
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Old 11-26-2012
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Very easy to do. I never took out the radiator, but everyone works different.
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Old 11-26-2012
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It's not hard to do. 15mm on the damper bolts, you don't have to pull the water pump.

Also depends if you're going to pull the front cover or not. If the dowel for the gear case hasn't been tabbed, now's the time to pull the cover & do it.
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Old 11-26-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAF View Post
It's not hard to do. 15mm on the damper bolts, you don't have to pull the water pump.

Also depends if you're going to pull the front cover or not. If the dowel for the gear case hasn't been tabbed, now's the time to pull the cover & do it.
My bad. How do you replace the seal without pulling the cover off since the seal seats into the cover from the rear? Or am I missing something (in case I ever have to do it again)
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Old 11-26-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris H. View Post
Very easy to do. I never took out the radiator, but everyone works different.
After the first time (with Rad etc. in) I had a leaky front seal. After the second time, front cover leaked, this time I used a gasket instead of just sealant. Third time I had a leaky cover after using a little sealant and the gasket. 4th time I pulled everything, used the gasket, sealant behind gasket and sealant on front of gasket. Let it sit overnight then put it all back together with no leaks. I had to work outside (no shop) and got tired of trying to work around the Rad, and was sick of the darn thing leaking each time I did it.

Hope you have better luck than I did.
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Old 11-27-2012
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Originally Posted by klmahnke View Post
My bad. How do you replace the seal without pulling the cover off since the seal seats into the cover from the rear? Or am I missing something (in case I ever have to do it again)

No prob. You can pull the seal without pulling the cover, but it's a PITA to do. I've done it on non Dodge vehicles before. The seal installs from the front. After getting it started in the cover, there's a metal install tool in the seal kit to set the seal depth.

Also, when you pull the damper, you might have to 'wiggle' it off with a prybar cause they get stuck sometimes. After you get all the bolts out, thread 2 back in partway...that way if the damper's stuck & comes flying off when you're removing it, it won't hit the radiator.
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Old 05-10-2015
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You have to pull the fan to get the damper off ? I'm having trouble getting at it with a crescent wrench. Never had any trouble with my 360 gas engine, but no room to with the diesel. I have the radiator out, any trouble tapping the seal in, or should I take the inner cooler out ?

Thanks
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Old 05-10-2015
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Only way is to remove the front cover and install the seal from the back side. You will never get it installed with the gear case cover on. Easiest way to remove the fan is to remove the four ten MM bolts from the hub and bearing assembly. Dodge didn't leave you any room so this is the best way.
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Old 05-20-2015
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Thanks for the answer. I winged it by putting in the seal, without pulling the cover. It lasted two days and came back leaking.....Gerrr.
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