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Old 06-06-2006
RAF RAF is offline
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Default 12V and 24V Models 1988.5 - 2007 Valve Adjustment

Hi All! RAF will be sending some images to us in a few days, but for now we wanted to post the article.

Thanks to RAF for composing this "How To" article.

Trapp
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This procedure covers the 12V & 24V engines and should be able to be used for the common rail engine as well.

The procedure is referred to as the 'overlap' method, and it's quite easy once you do it.

Now it doesn't matter if you start with either #1 cylinder or #6 cylinder, cause you still have to rotate the engine 360* to do the other half of the valves.

I use the alternator nut to turn the engine over. The 24V will probably have to be turned over backwards because of the belt slipping. No big deal.

The valves are arranged I E, I E, etc. When you rotate the engine over, look at the exhaust rockers on both #2 & #5. When one of them start moving, it determines that either #1 or #6 is coming up on the compression or overlap stroke.

If the #2 exhaust rocker is moving, that means that #1 cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke. Watch both rockers on # 6 cylinder. One will start to open slightly just as the other one closes...STOP. #6 cylinder is in 'overlap'. You'll also see that #2 exhaust rocker is down.

It will look like this... * Image # 1 * at the bottom of page.. Note the position of the #2 exhaust rocker arm compared to the other ones.

Since #1 is at TDC, adjust the intake valves on cylinders 1-2-4. Adjust the exhaust valves on 1-3-5.

Mark your vibration damper and front cover with something like whiteout so you have a reference point for doing the other half of the valves.
* Image #2 * at bottom of page.

Now rotate the engine in the same direction as before until the reference marks line back up. You'll see that #5 exhaust rocker is down, meaning #6 is on the compression stroke, and that #1 cylinder is in 'overlap'.

It'll look like this. * Image #3 * at bottom of page. Look way back there, #5 exhaust rocker arm is down.

Now you can adjust the intake valves on 3-5-6, and the exhaust valves on 2-4-6.

On the 24V engine, the feeler gauge goes between the rocker arm and the valve bridge. The valve bridge is the piece under the end of the rocker arm that resembles a 'roof truss', like in the first picture.


I know it sounds more complicated than it is, but once you see how it all works, it's real easy. It might not be a bad idea to turn the engine over a few times to familiarize yourself with it. And it doesn't matter if you start with #1 or #6 cylinder.

The lash for the 12 & 24 is .010 on the intake, .020 on the exhaust. The 24 does have a min & max spec, .006-.015 intake, .015-.030 exhaust, but I always set them at .010 & .020. I also set mine to have a nice drag on the feeler gauge, but everyone's feel is different. What I do is back the adjuster nut off, tighten the adjuster down till the feeler gauge barely moves. Then while holding the adjuster with the allen wrench/screwdriver, tighten the nut. The nut will pull the adjuster back a tad, giving you a nice drag on the feeler gauge.

You'll need a flat blade screwdriver for the adjusters on the 12V, and a 3/16 allen wrench on the 24V. A 9/16 wrench will work on the adjuster nuts, and a 9/16 socket and ratchet will save your knuckles when breaking the adjuster nuts loose.

Sorry if the pics are a little blurry.
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