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Technical Info: 1st Generation Technical discussion of first generation (1989 - 1993) questions, solutions and upgrades. All 1st generation topics are suitable for this forum.
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Old 01-08-2020
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mopardave91242 mopardave91242 is offline
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Default Hydroboost issue?

Converted brakes years ago and was thrilled with the results, just had the brakes replaced all the way around and since then it seems the rear brake on the driver side is riding/dragging. I can smell the brake burning if I take a trip longer than 15 minutes. Took it back to the shop and they backed off on the adjustment and replaced the wheel cylinder but it's still burning, my assumption is porportioning valve has failed. The rear brakes were totally cooked when they were replaced leading me to believe the brakes may have been dragging for years....any thoughts?
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1992 D250 CTD Auto, Isspro Guages, BFG 31x16.5's, 110K miles
1974 Dodge Dart 440/727, Ferd 9" w/3.89 & 4 Wheel Disc Brakes
1973 CJ 5 Swamp Buggy, 258/4sp, 37" Boggers
1988 Ramcharger/'92 CTD/Auto
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Old 01-08-2020
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Drum brake adjustment is a lost art. Along with proper service and troubleshooting. Could be anything from incorrect adjustment to a froze parking brake cable. Possibly even oil contamination of the shoes by a leaking axle seal.
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Old 01-08-2020
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The rubber brake lines clogged with rust & acted like a check valve, holding pressure on the brakes on my '92 Olds Bravada & '78 Electraglide.
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Old 01-08-2020
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PIGIRON PIGIRON is offline
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Hey Dave, on my 91, I replaced the master cylinder and I had trouble adjysting the rod that fits inside the master cyl from the booster. It would be fine for a while then driving along the highway my brakes would drag, I thought my tranny was seizing up, but then you get that pungent odor of brake lining. I fought that problem for a while until I got it adjusted properly.
At one point, when the brakes were dragging, I had to loosed the two nuts holding the master cylinder on, and that got me home where I adjusted that rod again. Maybe next time you feel them dragging, just loosed the two 9/16 nuts a bit and see if that relieves the dragging, if so, adjust the hydroboost pushrod back a little. If I remember you need two 7/16 wrenches and maybe a pair of vicegrips pliars.
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Old 01-11-2020
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mopardave91242 mopardave91242 is offline
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Thanks for the tips, I've got some leads to chase now starting with the pushrod, I believe it was shortened during the swap, perhaps not enough. My friend has done the brakes on all my trucks and I'm lucky to have him, he's been at the same shop since '78 and helped me build the Dart and Swamp Buggy, thanks again I'll let yall know what I find
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1985 D350 Crew Cab/'93 CTD/Auto, BHAF w/OuterWears, Isspro guages, Mag-Hytec, Custom Sound-proofing, bone-stock on 295x16's, 143,000+ miles since conversion w/ 321,000+ on the dial
1992 D250 CTD Auto, Isspro Guages, BFG 31x16.5's, 110K miles
1974 Dodge Dart 440/727, Ferd 9" w/3.89 & 4 Wheel Disc Brakes
1973 CJ 5 Swamp Buggy, 258/4sp, 37" Boggers
1988 Ramcharger/'92 CTD/Auto
1967 Barracuda notchback fixin to get the Darts innerds...
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Old 01-11-2020
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I would hang my hat on rubber brakes lines seen it in truck cars and even class 8 on fuel lines
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