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Technical Info: 2nd Gen NON-DRIVETRAIN Technical discussion of second generation (1994 - 2002) questions, solutions and upgrades. Please -- DO NOT post drivetrain discussions in this forum.
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  #1  
Old 12-18-2017
datec datec is offline
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Default Cab heat issue

This has me and my new mechanic kinda stumped. After rebuilding the entire truck, 2000 1ton 4x4 diesel, new everything including heater core and all a/c parts and lines. Original radiator and condenser still perfect cond. just cleaned and reinstalled.

Last winter I thought the heat was really just warm when it use to burn you out of the cab before, I didn't drive it much so didn't give it much thought until now that it's winter again.

I noticed it wouldn't get up to temp so I installed a new thermostat and it helped a little but not much on the heat.

I noticed that at an idle the heat coming thru the vents is just warm even when you are stopped at a red light, but as soon as you press the accelerator it gets hot and stays hot, get off the accelerator back to just warm....

One mechanic told me my clutch fan is to blame but that made me scratch my head thinking how and why Could that cause the issue?...

So while the truck is getting inspected and the transfer seals replaced by a recommended diesel mechanic he too feels the same as me about the fan but said he really doesn't know.

Does anyone here have any experience with this issue? I would really like to get it right the first time. The fluid level is good also that is what I suspected at first but it's good.

Could there be an air pocket still in there somewhere that needs burped out? I have about 1000 miles on it since it was completed, I don't drive it much but want it in tip top shape.
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Old 12-19-2017
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Sounds more like flow problem, try flushing the heater core. Also pull the fitting out of the head that supplies coolant to the heater core, it has a rather small opening in it and that may be partially plugged.
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Old 12-19-2017
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I feel its a water flow issue , not an airflow across the radiator issue....look for a coolant flow restriction/air pocket.
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Old 12-19-2017
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Water pump?
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Old 12-19-2017
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I had that problem too on my '91, Found out the body shop didn't put the vent sxcreen back on and my inlet box was full of leaves.
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Old 12-19-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainCummins View Post
Sounds more like flow problem, try flushing the heater core. Also pull the fitting out of the head that supplies coolant to the heater core, it has a rather small opening in it and that may be partially plugged.
I will check into that. I also feel that it seems to be a coolant flow issue. The clutch fan being the problem to me makes no sense.

The motor sat out under cover with a tarp while I did all the work on it. I replaced every nut and bolt and every part of the truck, I took a "when in doubt throw it out" stance when I was redoing it, every hose, line and clamp was replaced, I even went and bought pre-bent stainless brake lines you name it and it was done with exception of the motor, trans and axles.

Leaves in the air intake doesn't seem right because the fans air flow is good and all switching functions as it should the blend door is working as it should no drafts or misdirected air coming from where it shouldn't. It gets hot with a slight press of the accelerator then goes warm at idle. That seems to point to a coolant flow issue like either not enough (which I checked and is good) or an air pocket, which I figured after 1k miles should have burped itself out, unless I am overlooking something.

Does it have a bleed off valve somewhere that I didn't notice? or is there a procedure when completely filling the coolant system from scratch that I overlooked?
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Old 12-20-2017
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Clogged leaking heater core was my reason for little/no heat. Coolant was under plastic sheet under the carpet.
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Old 12-20-2017
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When you fill the engine with coolant, run it up to temperature with the radiator cap off. Cummins Official stance on cooling system fill is to run up to temp with the cap off, then let it cool to ambient temp, top off the coolant and install the cap. They are actually rather serious about cooling system fill and deaeration, serious enough they pay 1.4 hours for it when doing warranty work.

Also to keep it simple, Low coolant level could also cause your issue
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Last edited by CaptainCummins; 12-20-2017 at 03:39 PM..
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Old 12-20-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainCummins View Post
When you fill the engine with coolant, run it up to temperature with the radiator cap off. Cummins Official stance on cooling system fill is to run up to temp with the cap off, then let it cool to ambient temp, top off the coolant and install the cap. They are actually rather serious about cooling system fill and deaeration, serious enough they pay 1.4 hours for it when doing warranty work.

Also to keep it simple, Low coolant level could also cause your issue
Thanks, I know I never did that but did fill Rad. and topped the overflow. I drove it for a while then changed the thermostat and topped off rad. again.

I might have an air pocket inside somewhere as a result which makes sense, along with low coolant (which last I looked it was full). I would have thought any air would have worked itself out by now though, but maybe not.

Any good tricks to bleed out the system? I would think the highest spot would be the tube that runs across the top of the motor but that is metal, if memory serves me well.

Is there a bleed screw somewhere I haven't noticed?
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Old 12-21-2017
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No bleed screw, the second gen trucks were not bad at all about trapping air in them, as long as it got up to temp (Or at least thermostat open) with the radiator cap off, you should be in good shape.

I suspect you may have a heater core that is restricted, I would disconnect both lines to the heater core, and hook a garden hose to the line that runs down to the water inlet housing next to the water pump, and see if you can get it cleaned out some. Also be sure to inspect the coolant supply fitting in the cylinder head I mentioned.
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