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Technical Info: 2nd Gen NON-DRIVETRAIN Technical discussion of second generation (1994 - 2002) questions, solutions and upgrades. Please -- DO NOT post drivetrain discussions in this forum.
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  #21  
Old 01-09-2018
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Thank You for that I will look at it when I get it back, I'm not sure he will get it all out with just changing the thermostat, which he did and said it is holding better then it was.

Would draining the coolant and using an Airlift vacuum tool to fill it work? I recently acquired one of those.

Nope I have one and it sits in the drawer. Follow the instructions above and you will be fine.
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  #22  
Old 01-10-2018
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Nope I have one and it sits in the drawer. Follow the instructions above and you will be fine.
Thank You I will do that and when I do I will post my results.

Today he said it is only dropping 10-12* at gauge with new thermostat, temp into heater core 170* at idle return line from rad a little over 100*.
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  #23  
Old 01-17-2018
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Nope I have one and it sits in the drawer. Follow the instructions above and you will be fine.
Well I got the truck back the other day and still no good heat. He placed a piece of cardboard between the rad. and cond. and it hovered around 170 and the heat was just warm and he said he used his Snap-on coolant vac on it and said I will have to keep the cardboard in place to keep the heat. Well yesterday I took it into the garage and did what Max said and I drained 2.5-3gal out and after refilling I capped the plug aand ran it. Not much of a change so I pulled the plug and used my "no spill" funnel I filled it while on the rad. And nothing. I then pulled the plug with the funnel in place and coolent started to fly out of the hole and then all of a sudden all these bubbles started to excape out while letting the coolant spill out the hole. I let it go until the bubbling stopped and then I plugged the hole. I guess I lost about 1/4gal anti freeze doing that, but figured oh well.

I refilled the rad. put the cap on and filled the overflow about 3/4 full started the truck and it got hot and went to the proper temp. Good it's done, pulled out of the garage locked up and drove home.

Got up this morning started it 40min before I was leaving for work to warm up and just warm inside . After work pulled it in and popped the rad cap it was down about 1qt and the overflow was 3/4 empty, SOAB. Well this time I put my "no spill" funnel on and filled it 1/2 way and let the truck run for an hour to get it to temp. I was squeezing the upper rad hose while it was running and more bubbles came out into the "no spill" funnel after an hour it got to temp and more bubbles I was squeezing the rad hose too while all this was going on until no more bubbles and heat coming out of the vents measured 150*. I figured I finally got it.

Closed up shop drive to get fuel still good heat, driving home heat went to warm and the dash gauge read 150*, SOAB. Hear I go again. Tomorrow I will do it again, except I will pull the hoses off the heater core and force water in one hose and I bet that the trapped air is in there that is the highest spot on the system and I see no other way to evacuate air out of it.

Anybody have any other suggestions? The cooling system including block was bone dry when I filled it and discovered this issue.
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  #24  
Old 01-18-2018
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What year truck is it?
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  #25  
Old 01-18-2018
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When I had heat issues with my 01And changed out the heater core, the output was still pretty much the same. I could let my truck warm forever in 30*F temps and it would never show on the temp gauge. Covering all but 10" in the center of my radiator helped but not much. Believe it or not, after reading a lot of forums, I replaced the aftermarket thermostat with a $75.00 one from Cummins and voila! Twice as much heat.
Our trucks have serious cooling systems on them. Better than PS or Dmax it seems. I can fill with fuel, go in and get a coffee, and my gauge will read cool unless I leave truck running. Only thing I can figure from it is that the valve plate(?) on the Cummins tstat has a cone shape as if it meters coolant flow or whatever.
Then I discovered my quad doors weren't latching right. Fixing those sealed the doors better and helped. Who knew it could be that quiet in my truck?!
Both cab corners have holes in mine. Taped over with aluminum duct tape for now. HAHa! Shouldn't be a problem. It'll never see 200mph.
Engine : 350,000 miles and purrs like a kitten still.
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  #26  
Old 01-19-2018
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It's a 2000. As far as the heater core the symptoms act as though there is still an air pocket in it, gets hot when you depress the accelerator and goes to just warm when at an idle. I'm guessing I will have to bleed it again, more aggressively this time and will have to come up with a way to catch any antifreeze that spills out.
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  #27  
Old 01-19-2018
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You said you replaced the water pump correct? With who’s pump Cummins or parts chain?
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  #28  
Old 01-20-2018
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No I haven't replaced the water pump just the thermostat. The water pump is what I was considering if this fails to work.

I went out this morning to start it up and let it run, I popped the hood and seen the overflow went down to 1/4 when I filled it to 3/4, so it sucked more into the radiator since I drove it last.

I have no leaks anywhere so the engine is tight.
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  #29  
Old 03-05-2018
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Ok here is the where things are at. A couple weekends ago I spent 2hrs working every bit of air out. I started by removing the bleeder plug and just a quick turn of the key to crank it and fluid shot up hitting the under-side of my trucks open hood so I think the water pump is fine. I replaced the plug and let the truck run for 2hrs while I was and getting all the air completely out with my "NO-Spill" funnel and squeezing the top Rad hose the entire time. I got another quart in it and I topped off the overflow, some of the quart was what I lost on the crank over test I did.

The heat coming out of the vents was 160-70*+/- and the engine temp was at or real close to 190*. So I was good to go.

Drove the truck 25mi to a hardware store heat cooked me out and I had to open a window. Looked around a little and left. Got into my truck and M.F. temp was at 140-145* and just luke warm air from vents the whole way home.

I said F-it I went to Cummins Youngstown and bought a 190* thermostat (incase the mech. used aftermarket) and water pump, I also called Chrysler and bought a clutch for the fan. Now that covers everything and all will be brand new.

I figured I would start with the clutch fan and see what happens. Well I had to remove the top hose anyhow and seen an aftermarket thermostat was installed (just like the pic above) so the Cummins one was installed also. Got it put back together and Dam if I don't have blistering hot heat again and engine temp is a solid 190*.

I would guess the real problem was the clutch fan the whole time. The fan turned like it should while on the truck but once off and lying on the floor the nut would not move, the clutch was froze. My guess would be the fan would work a little at first start-up and then get stuck engaged pulling too much air thru the Rad not letting the engine get to or hold the normal operating temp.

So I have a new water pump in the box I will just hold on to (just incase) but the heat issue is now fixed.
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  #30  
Old 03-06-2018
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You would have to put the aftermarket thermostat back in to rule that out.
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4"Monster exhaust, Ranch Hand Legend frt bumper, silencer ring MIA,Cooper AT3s, Timbo's APPS, Spohn Trackbar upgrade, HellBent Steel DSS, 50hp Maxtorq Injectors.
Mopar 52122362AH Steering upgrade
30' Damon Escaper 5'er 12,000#
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