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Technical Info: 2nd Gen 24 VALVE DRIVETRAIN Technical discussion of second generation (1998 - 2002) 24-valve engine and drivetrain questions, solutions and upgrades.
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  #21  
Old 05-31-2017
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deej deej is offline
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I'm watching this thread very close. Today I decided to change the fuel filter on my 99, which by the way has run flawless for the 16 year that I have owned it. However pulling our 7000 lb trailer this past weekend camping, the truck would barely pull the trailer over the slightest incline. So today I thought since its been a couple of years since I changed the filter, today would be a good time to do that.

Well from what I have read all over the internet, it seems that I may have had a dead lift pump all along and once I broke the system apart and introduced air, now the injection pump can't get enough pull to feed itself. So I guess I will order a new lift pump, probably the stock equivalent like the FASS one. Any suggestions on where to get the best price? Thanks guys.
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2006 Yamaha XT 225
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  #22  
Old 05-31-2017
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Just ran across this. And its exactly what happened to me today. I NEED A NEW LIFT PUMP! SERENITY NOW!!!

HERE IS AN INTERESTING SCENERIO YOU SHOULD KNOW!
If the engine WAS running BEFORE you CHANGED THE FUEL FILTER OR OPENED A FUEL LINE,
AND IT HASN’T STARTED SINCE, or, it started and stalled after doing this, AND IT WON’T BLEED
and restart, and you can hear the lift pump running, but it won’t fill the filter bowl, you most
likely have a bad electric lift pump. Please remember when you are doing this diagnosis that the
ECM turns on the electrical power to the electric lift pump only for 4 seconds when the key is in
the “on” or “run” position. When the ECM sees the “start” signal from the ignition switch it runs
the pump for 25 seconds, and when it sees idle RPM it runs continuously. If the electric lift
pump doesn’t come on, or doesn’t pump fuel into the filter bowl when you click the key to the
“start” and release it to the “run” position, you can bleed the system to get fuel to the VP44
and get the engine to run again, by pressurizing the fuel tank with air pressure, or diagnosing
the electric lift pump. The reason this strange scenario happens, is because there is a
mechanical lift pump built into the VP44 which works fine UNTIL air gets into the system. This
explains why VP44 fueled engines don’t die on the side of the road when the electric lift pump
fails.
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1999 2500 4X4 K&N Filter
2005 Honda ST 1300
2006 Kawasaki KLX 250S Dual Purpose
2006 Yamaha XT 225
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  #23  
Old 06-01-2017
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jetfueljockey jetfueljockey is offline
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Got an AirDog 100 on my 06, NAPA sells filters and water separators for this setup. Carry an extra relay as they fail.....12 bucks at Advanced with a lifetime warranty
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  #24  
Old 06-03-2017
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Update! Ordered a lift pump from Carquest, installed in 30 minutes and bam! Pumping fuel in the canister and trough the injector pump. Bled out 3 of the easiest injectors and bob's your Uncle I'm back in business.
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2006 Kawasaki KLX 250S Dual Purpose
2006 Yamaha XT 225
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  #25  
Old 06-11-2017
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Ok so I went to take apart the old fuel pump and uhhhh. are these things made in Germany? This is weird.

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  #26  
Old 07-11-2017
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LITEFOOT LITEFOOT is offline
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I would like to recap this thread and start a new one.
Nov. 2016 truck died, codes indicated VP44 dead, replaced VP, put 80 or 90 miles on it.
April 26 truck died agin, will not start, no codes, suspected Carter lift pump, installed Fass DRP.
Still no start. Pulled connector on VP and hot wired same, Truck started and ran at an idle.
So VP is working, put connector back, checked fuel pressure, 18# but still no start.
Replaced ECM, still would not start.
Replaced crank sensor, truck started and ran fine for half mile.
Then would die if given any throttle. Runs at idle give it throttle and dies. If i increase RPM slowly engine shuts down at 2900 RPM, put it in gear and it dies.
It was suggested that the tone ring on the crank may be failing, to check oil for pieces of ring.
Thanks for all the suggestions and support.
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Last edited by LITEFOOT; 07-11-2017 at 09:11 PM..
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  #27  
Old 07-12-2017
Junkman Junkman is offline
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Strange. Used to be standard procedure to have a permanently installed fuel pressure gauge. Was also commonly agreed that stock or aftermarket stock replacements frequently did not provide sufficient fuel. Stock pressure per FSM is 10#. Over flow valve opens at 14#. Arguments say you want between 10 & 15# (some say 17#) at idle.

Stock truck (00): turn key to "run" the first time fuel pressure kicks to normal idle pressure and returns to 0.

Key to start cranks engine and it starts immediately. Fuel pressure quickly climbs to idle pressure and stays steady unless grids are pulling current down.

Anything else is abnormal.

OP needs to know that fuel pump is putting out at least stock (10#) at idle. It is a yes/no question. You can bump the starter and the fuel pump is supposed to run at idle pressure. Again, yes/no question.

Harbor Freight has an injection testing kit that will attach to the stock port on the VP to answer this question. Parts stores have similar kits to loan.

When you have stock fuel pressure, next is to bleed the hard lines. If fuel pressure and no fuel to injectors after bleeding, more trouble shooting required but fuel, fuel pressure and codes are needed first.
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Last edited by Junkman; 07-12-2017 at 09:03 PM..
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